A place in my heart: Mumbai, India
October 2, 2008
Alan Crabb, A place in my heart competition runner-up
Where? Mumbai, India
Why? The people - noisy, polite, intelligent, persistent, busy, chatty, always pushing or pulling something, or driving like crazy ('horn please' signs on the back of every vehicle mean what they say - "tell me you're there, or suffer the consequences"). The heat - midnight arrivals are usual, but be prepared to walk into a wall of deliciously smelly fug. The shopping - find the markets, or the newer shopping centres. If you want clubbing, that's what they do here. It's not a city full of tourist attractions - but it's a fantastic introduction to India.
Where would you stay? If you can afford it, the Renaissance Hotel on Lake Powai - five miles north of the main airport and about ten miles north of the city centre. Superbly located overlooking the lake, with the nearby new business and shopping centre beautifully reflected at dusk. Look out for the occasional Bollywood star. (Otherwise, in central Mumbai, lots of nice small hotels just off the harbour.)
Best meal? Five restaurants at the hotel, all to high international standards. If you can wangle the concierge service, help yourself to a buffet style range of dishes that will keep you occupied all evening - delicious fresh fruit and yoghurt. If you have a stainless steel constitution, try freshly roasted corn in the market followed by instant coconut-milk drunk straight from the nut ("stand well back sir....whack! One straw or two?").
Best way to spend an hour? Find the back way out of the hotel complex, cross the huge pipelines that feed water to Mumbai, go into the village. You might find a cricket match in progress (applaud everything). Here shops and stalls serve the local community at prices well below those in the shopping centres (if you know what you are doing, buy your saris here) and children who delight in showing off their spoken English. If you walk too far, take a 'put-put' back to the hotel - hold on tight, it's a bumpy ride. In the evening walk by the lake where you can bird spot ("what are those really big, black birds out there on the lake?" , "they are water buffalo, sir....."). Or take a car ride around the lake to Powai where a heady mix of old and new India awaits for some top shopping.
Top tips? Hire a car and driver by the day (get a quote and book at the door). Ridiculously cheap by European standards, and you will make a driver and his family very happy. Head north away from the city centre to the Kanheri caves. A unique geological area with huge lava-flows from the world's largest volcano which is now fortunately extinct as well as a wildlife park, although not much wildlife remains. The real attractions are the ancient caves and temples carved into the hills. It’s not yet commercialised but has a genuinely 'spiritual' atmosphere. Or head west to Juhu beach. Isolated it is not. It can get very busy in the evenings, with stalls and stands on the sand - but it’s good fun. If you want the city centre, make a day of it and be prepared to enjoy the traffic. From the harbour, try the boat trip to Elephanta Island which has more caves and temples except this one is more commercialised and has quite a bit of hill climbing, but it’s worth the effort. Sorry to say, but don’t be tempted to give to beggars - you will be followed remorselessly all day.
